Is the Metal Chassis on the Beta discov3ry machines supposed to hinged upward and back?


#1

Hey everyone, Dave here, beta backer #7, I JUST got my machine today and unpacked it, (everything looks good) got a few questions:

Clear Tubing, What’s the average length people are using? The tubing supplied is quite long, and while the tubing in the pics looks a bit shorter I’m guessing you can cut this tubing up for various uses, and I know it depends on your printers “reach” per se, but seems like it might be around a 1ft 1/2, so maybe the tubing provided is enough for 3 or 4 substances? I guess i’m trying to gauge if I need to hit home depot first for more tubing :wink:

The second question I had was about the metal chassis. The chassis has two screws in the top and at the back, it seems that the front panel swings forward and up to allow for easy cleaning, maintenance, etc. However the machine I have doesn’t have the back corners of the chassis “ground down” or notched to allow for clearance when the front swings open… Is this correct? or has this been changed in future designs already, or is the font pannel supposed to be secured down at additional points and somehow my is free swinging?

Third question has anyone used a molex adapter/connector and created a quick connect for their paste extruder? If so how is it working out? I don’t really want to disconnect and reconnect my extruder all the time and would like to use just a nice quick connect.

Fourth question, what materials has most people been using and what are the settings they’ve found successful (as a base to start out at on your printer) to start printing at, e.g. chocolate settings vs humas settings.

Last question Anyone have a custom bracket yet created in .stl format for mounting the end nozzle on a replicator2x and or a rostock maxv2?

thanks in advance!

http://www.dbclunie.com - 3d printing/electronics/career blog (I plan on putting up my articles about the discov3ry there :slight_smile:


#2

i’m working on a rostock mount and quick release nozzle holder that would be adaptable to any 18mm hole so i can use it on my other printers since i’ve already made the mounts for them with 18mm holes. I’ll post it when finished later this week.

The clear tubing thing was answered on the kickstarter comments “We are planning to ship the tubing as one piece, uncut – but it will be enough for 6 times 30 cm lengths”
although i’ve found extruding through it, it expands a lot and not sure if this is intended but i could see leading to problems with controlling extrusion or would have to be controlled with retracts or more suited for less viscous pastes. i’ll be trying water line and perhaps ptfe tubing after this trip.

My unit also has the hinge that halfway lifts up, no problem with it since this is a beta unit, but it seems like its supposed to lift up all the way from the way the slot is on front. so they might have to fix this and we might have to figure out our own solution.

i’ve used atx psu molex connectors for that purpose and others on printers. worked great so see no reason why it wouldn’t work fine, but i’ll be using them on my printers to switch between them with the discov3ry. will post on this too when its done.

for materials i’ve only used a clay slurry that worked and some chocolate/ nutella stuff, that didn’t work too well for me.

i’ll probably post video’s if i can and once i tune and learn more about the unit. only had a day with it before i left on a trip, but picked up some intresting ingredients to test once i get back.


#3

Hey another couple of question for you, So I unboxed my printer and took off the two piece of red/blue electrical tape, and when I was explaining to the the girlfriend how this thing works, and was showing her the innards, the top portion of the extruder bracket that looks like a U shape (and btw have very sharp edges) and is made of aluminum, just fell off the machine. I don’t see how that it should be attached or anything to “tighten it down” to secure the syringe in the machine at the top of the machine. Is this normal? Am I missing something, the instructions are a bit vague (you guys need to really make a better manual or offer a more detailed one online.

Also what is wit the split in the top of the outer case at the top? seems the only reason for this is to pinch fingers over and over when moving the machine around. Is this a result of the manufactueing of the case, e.g., you guys couldn’t figure out a better way to bend the case from a single piece of metal? I’d recommend using ducttape or welding the pieces together. To be honest the case isn’t the best feature about the product I’d think you’d be better off with acrylic/wood enclosure, the case just screams early 90s pc case design, which was terrible.

The big silver box, can you/you should provide an exploded view of the entire machine and especially this “box” so as people can see if they’re going to need any parts or how easy it’ll be to replace things when they go wrong. Being that you have machines out in the wild now “secrecy” is no longer an issue.

thanks in advance for the replies, I’m looking forward to printing out somethings this weekend with a few materials, will likely try out it on my makerbot 2x first then move to my rostock maxv2. Hoping to document it on my blog as well as maybe a mini teardown.

-dclunie
www.dbclunie.com


#4

Hello @dbclunie. First off, welcome to our forum! We welcome your questions and concerns as we try to build the best option available for desktop printing.

I wanted to cover some of your concerns:

  • Clear Tubing - we realized we miscounted 6ft in our first few shipments. We intended 2ft per tube (total of 12ft). To fix this we will be sending out some extra kits to those early shipments. Personally, I have found that about 1.5 ft is ideal. Another minor issue we are noticing is the food safe tubing we have sourced has less integrity than PVC tubing.
  • Metal enclosure swing - Yes, this has been fixed for future iterations. It was intended to allow easier access for hacking/cleaning/etc.
  • Quick Connect - We have been testing some molex options, this is likely the way we will be going in the future. There has been some early discussion here: http://forum.structur3d.io/t/a-standard-for-connecting-to-3d-printers/
  • Silicones and different food pastes have been the most popular. I will be starting a forum thread very soon for Discov3ry developers to share information on their specific EEPROM settings or input diameter calibrations. I will share what I have learned for the Ultimaker 2 and Felix 3.0.
  • We will be sharing a successful MB2X install sometime in the next month, stay tuned. And we actually just received a ROSTOCK V2 today and there is a good possibility we will put together a mounting bracket to share.
  • @dbclunie and @cor5151 We really look forward to your content and will gladly share around.
  • As we documented through our updates, we had the most difficulty in the development and sourcing of our Discov3ry enclosure. You are correct, we did design with the manufacturing in mind and the seam is something we will need to address moving forward. We do really appreciate any feedback, and it will definitely be considered as we iterate V1 and move forward to V2.
  • The small U-shaped bracket was due to some differences in the syringes we sourced during development and during scale-up. This issue is top priority for us at the moment and we hope to resolve for post-beta backers.
  • We will probably release a few more of the schematics of the “silver box” as we begin shipping into the Production batches. We did design (simulate) mechanically for a 3 year lifetime of daily use, lets see how it does.

Please keep sharing everything you learn (good, and bad :wink:).

Happy Making!


#5

just concerning the syringes, in the one kit of them i’ve opened one syringe was cracked and one of the flanges was broke off, could be due to customs.

also the labels and lettering/lines are seem poorly printed on them and can be scratched off with a finger nail and looks faded after one use/rinse, this is most likely just due to them being screen printed on polypropylene. might want to look into testing other ink.
a friend was just showing me what they use to screen print on vinyl and it was pretty potent stuff. I tried once and messed it up lol

@dbclunie the u shaped aluminum piece helps secure the syringe when extruding, without it the flanges of the syringe will bend and push it up under pressure or break… didn’t know what it was for until my first try extruding and didnt have it in.

i’ve had a little more time one the discov3ry now, with much better results with nutella as well as the rest of the clay filled syringe.
I left the clay syringe and hose capped under a lot of pressure for 5 days, opened it up and started right where i left off.

Look forward to hearing about eeprom rom settings and any info on retracts, been change those a lot and tried filament settings from 1-3mm. will prob move up to 1/8 microstepping next.